Set The Bar
Lifestyle in Style

!nsurgente: A Singleton from the Dão

Having been in the Dão region in Portugal recently for 5 days of extensive tastings and lots of eating I have been won over to the wines of the Dão and its beautiful topography. An abundance of limestone soil seems to give the white wines a scratchy and gravelling feeling on the palate and gives unique character to the reds.

Lucky for us the !insurgente has been produced in limestone soils at an altitude of 400 metres typical of so many Dão wines.

In colour black cherry.

A blend of the very common Portuguese Touriga Nacional and less common Alfrocheiro the latter seemingly having originated in the Dão but spread throughout several wine regions.

On the nose rich black cherry and decadently ripe strawberries. A deep centre of cassis and black currant. A bit of juiciness which is overrun by the rich decadence of the wine.

On the palate black cherry, blackberry and cherry liqueur. Its richness leaves only a whisper of juiciness. A medium finish but a rich one. This will handle suckling pig and roast goat with ease. I think the Alfrochiero being such a rich and tannic grape has overtaken the acidity of the limestone but certainly not eliminated it as that minerality sneaks up ever so slightly in the back palate.

This is one very serious red and delightful to sip but have it with deftly prepared Portuguese pork or goat and without hurting anyone you’ll be transported to the land of seven virgins.

Now I say it’s lonely because most often Dão wines are released by the LCBO as singletons. Nothing wrong with singletons! My Westie Dylan was born a singleton and I’d rate him like a Luca Maroni rated Italian wine at 99!

Powerful but not overly tannic. This will fade nicely into the 2020 barbeque season!

At this price another obscenely compelling red wine from Portugal for those who like power and presence.

(!nsurgente DOC Dão 2015, Lua Cheia Em Vinhas Velhas, Lua Cheia em Vinhos Velhas, Portugal, $17.95, 14%. 750 mL, LCBO # 630947, Set The Bar Rating 92/100).

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