Set The Bar
Lifestyle in Style

Credibility as A Wine Writer: Insanely High Wine Ratings!

As a wine writer I realize I have a duty of fairness both to my readers and to the producers to accurately review a wine and give it an accurate score.

Inflated wine ratings discount your credibility as a wine writer and I can assure you many of us that write about wine know who the overly generous writers are. Of course, what is odious is outright bribery and corruption. Less odious is pay to play where a fee is charged for a “subscription service” to the wine writer’s website or a fee charged to review wine. Even free samples create an “appearance of a conflict of interest” and should be disclosed to the reader of a review.

A particularly more LCBO referred to critic is Italian Luca Maroni who routinely hands out 96-99 wine ratings. My comparative ratings are nowhere near his sky-high ratings. Am I missing something? Is Maroni missing something? Is the LCBO not somewhat suspect of Maroni’s ratings? Are they that desperate to sell-off wines by continually relying on what I think is a wildly over generous critic?

Well here is a 99 rated wine by Maroni. Is this a result of his affliction of overrating Italian wines?

This one is in a carbon unfriendly massively heavy bottle. It is called Nativ Suadens simply known as a Campanian White IGT and it is a blend of Falanghina, Fiano and Greco di Tufo. As single varietals they can be superb but in a blend? Never have I experienced such a blend!

On the eyes platinum coloured.

On the nose pear, pineapple and guava.

On the palate it is as if the individual varietals in the blend rather cancel themselves out. Now that can result in a unique blend or leave you with a neutered dog.  Unfortunately my beloved Campania simply can’t deliver on the palate! Here there is petrol, flat lime-lemon pop and some unpleasant tinned pineapple juice.

I cry not for Luca Maroni but the producers of this Campanian white. So much better is possible from Campania. I personally vouch for that.

Caveat emptor! Get time to align yourself with your wine reviewer!

(Nativ Suadens, Campania Bianco 2017 IGT, Da Societa Agricola Nativ SRL, Grottaminarda, Italy, $27.95, LCBO # 577767, 12%, 750 mL, Set The Bar Rating 86/100).

Considering the price and quality I feel hoodwinked.

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