As I will soon be in Campania I made a bee-line for a Campanian white in the LCBO April 27th release.
It is a Fiano di Avellino from Cantina Sanpaolo made of course from Fiano grapes! At best these wines from Fiano grapes are weighty and honeyed with notes of flowers and spice and can improve in the bottle.
In colour this wine is mid-golden. On the nose honey, melon, anise and cooked grits.
On the palate very discrete acidity with a rather long semi-hot finish. Let’s say it can keep the gums warm on a cold spring night. There is apple, pineapple, almonds, mango and white peach on the palate. Although the acidity is discrete its enough for me to say this is a foodie wine. I think it has enough richness to fare well with pork and chicken but enough acidity plus richness to handle shellfish and shrimp.
Avellino has volcanic, sand and clay soils
My wine computer brain is whirling now and the conclusion this is a unique Italian wine. A mid-weight companion for both shellfish and meat such as pork and chicken. Next time I have some lobster tails with garlic butter this will be my Campanian Companion.
The Vintages write-up says this will be a match for a tomato-based sauce. As my good Italian friend says when she has some doubts “Ahem”! Ahem indeed. At best perhaps with a Rosado sauce.
It will hang around for a few years but I can’t say it will improve with ageing. As summer is imminent I would say good with simply herbed chicken on the grill or local pickerel filets placed in foil with shallots, white wine and red onion placed on the grill for 15 minutes.
(Fiano di Avellino 2017, DOCG Fiano di Avellino, Cantina Sanpaolo, Torrioni, Italy, $19.95, 13.5, LCBO # 631705, 750 mL, Set The Bar Rating, 90/100).
A familiar grape for white wine in Campania is Greco di Tufo. This one is from Bellaria. In colour mid gold.
On the nose grapefruit, pear and a bit of bacon! On the palate creamy and full. Yes and again some bacon on the palate! Some smoke and pear too. This is an odd cookie! It’s big and solid like an ox. I would say a fantastic match with roast pork or go against all reason and try it with a Montreal smoked meat sandwich. Also, I wouldn’t argue about pairing it with lobster dipped in a butter garlic sauce. A unique wine. Drink by the end of the year.
(Bellaria Oltre Greco di Tufo 2017, DOCG, Societá Agricola Bellaria, Montefalcone, Italy. $22.95, 13%, 750 mL, LCBO # 632281, Set The Bar Rating 87/100).