Set The Bar
Lifestyle in Style

A Trio From Crios

Header-image-StephenBy Robert K. Stephen (CSW)

(TORONTO, ON) – From legendary Argentinean winemaker Susana Balbo comes the CRIOS label.

This time it is a 2014 Malbec from where else but the Malbec heaven of the world, Mendoza.

Santa Rosa plum in colour.

On the noise, rich in blackberry and plum with subtle notes of cocoa. Absolutely juicy!

Good traction with noticeable firmness on the palate, which escapes the lushness and plushness of many a Malbec and gets lost in its fruitiness and high alcohol. Smooth down the palate, full of black currant, blackberry, and with a nifty little flash of tannins, sweetness, and bacon.

A very simple yet effective Malbec. Not much of a finish, but a clean and pure one. Best consumed in the next couple of years. (Crios 2014 Malbec, Domino del Plata, Mendoza, Argentina, LCBO #162529, 13.5%, $14.95, Square Media Group Rating 91/100)

Even the colour of the Crios Syrah/Bonarda suggests a wild ride.

Purplish puissance. Crammed full of raspberry and chocolate at the core. Some overhang of black cherry, cassis, and liquorice.

Now, on the palate, very well measured rhubarb, raspberry, pepper, and overall juiciness. It’s smooth with mild tannins.

This wine is really a smooth sailer without being fruity or overdone. Extremely well disciplined.

I would say no more than two years for consumption. If only I had this wine for my New Year’s lunch of roasted boneless pork shoulder with three types of varying sweet wine and broccolini.

Due to its lack of tannins, avoid grilled beef with this. The colour and label suggest Easy Rider, but the end result is more like On the Waterfront. I’m impressed, particularly at this price point. (Crios Syrah/Bonarda 2013, Domino del Plata, Mendoza, Argentina,14%, LCBO #657619, $14.95, Square Media Group Rating 91/100).

crios torrontesWay up north in Argentina, welcome to the grape Torrontes.

Crudely stated, you might think of it as Argentina Gewurztraminer. Off dry and wandering off in a world of its own.

The Crios 2014 Torrontes is platinum coloured, which might hint at a dry and somewhat acidic white.

Aromas of tight peach and apricot with hints of guava and mango. Positively tropical.

On the palate, tight again with restrained peach and apricot, bound by tight acidity and a bit different than a full bodied Gewürztraminer.

Continued acidity on the palate and lack of full bodied peachiness keeps Torrontes as a breed of its own. I struggle to say this is an off dry wine as it really is truly high in acids obfuscating its fruit.

As for a food match about the only sane one would be whole grilled fish in a lemon, olive oil, and oregano sauce. Salsa Verde?

There is almost a coconut milk high overtone to this wine. A Gewürztraminer in a straight jacket? (Crios Torrontes 2014, Domino del Plata, Mendoza, Argentina, 14%, LCBO #1834, $13.95, Square Media Group Rating 88/100)

A very impressive triplet of wine from Crios. The two reds perhaps are more identifiable, though the Torrontes is a different story.

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